Intro Video discussing the purpose of the course, why it was developed, and how it will help your overall mace practice. PLEASE NOTE: In this intro video I tease future programs and education that I plan to release subsequent to this course, especially when referring to footwork and 3D movement. In truth, Steel Mace Swings is a foundational precursor to dynamic mace flow mapping and movement integration that I will expound on in later education, all of which falls under my novel movement system which I call UNIVERSAL FLOW.

Warm Up It wouldn't be a proper fitness program without a full body, total posterior chain warm up. I have used this very warm up hundreds of times while training clients and groups. This warm up starts at the feet and works all the way up the body preparing the spine and overall fascia for dynamic range of motion and rotational, circular movement. In my opinion, a warm up is simply a routine that should be used to check in with the body to see what needs attention before diving into the primary components of a movement session. Take out and add in anything you need to be ready for movement and swings especially.

Learning the 360, Part 1: Mapping the 360 using a Broomstick/PVC Pipe In this video, you will use a Broomstick, PVC Pipe, or some other light stick object to learn angles and orientation while we examine (2) different ways to approach the 360: 1. The clockwork method - because a broomstick/pvc pipe is ultra light with weight distributed symmetrically, we can work our way through every primary position without adding any pressure to our wrists, shoulders, or any other joints. We will clock the mace at 12:00, 9:00, 6:00, & 3:00 to show these primary points of access and egress with the 360 2. The momentum method - This is truly the way in which we perform a steel mace 360. In the momentum method we are simply letting the end of the tool cast off our tall upright order position at a point whereby gravity will pull onto the tool as we submit to forces of nature that will then pull it down by our backside with continuing momentum such that our elbows will be in prime position to drive us home back to order position. It is difficult to truly simulate the momentum method with a broomstick, but after having first done the clockwork method, it should make more sense as you go along and especially once we actually perform the drop with the mace as we learn in lesson 6 of this chapter.

Learning the 360, Part 2: Upside-Down (Sword Swing) 360s In this video, we will turn the mace upside-down and run through the steps & angles of a 360. Because the weight of the mace (the globe) is closer to our hands, it is much easier to guide it through our swing progressions and should more naturally assist your progression of performing 360s. This is the only portion of the SMS course where we will utilize the sword grip.

Learning the 360, Part 3: Metronome (Compression) In this clip, we will learn about the metronome and the concept of *compression*, which is when the mace, because of its offset nature and its distance away from our center of gravity, is pushing downward on our core. We notice that it is more difficult to hold the tool with our hands low while the globe is up high and requires both focus and contribution from many muscle groups, which a reoccurring theme of the mace and its ability to generate holistic, powerful strength throughout your body. NOTE ON GRIP/GRIP STRENGTH: When holding the mace in order position, you will want to grip the tail with both hands, as far down on the mace as you are comfortable. Your grip should be firm enough to have control over the mace, not moving without your full intention, but not so tight that you are wearing your grip out by holding it in order position for too long. Movement in the globe will indicate your level of control. If it is hard to hold and keep the globe (generally) still and upright, you should either choke up or use a lighter mace if you have one available. Also, make sure to use all five fingers while holding the mace in order position. Your top hand should maintain a full grip with tight-er wrist (keeping the above pressure/notes in mind) while you're bottom hand will be more relaxed in the wrist (and slightly angled) as well as middle, ring and pinky fingers loose-er and relaxed as well. In general, your grip pressure with the mace should be *good enough* to maintain control in both order position & metronome as well as in the pendulum in the back (as I mention in lesson 4 below), but not so tight that you blow out your grip earlier than needed. A good rule of thumb is that you should have 80%+ of your full grip strength AVAILABLE to you when performing swings with the steel mace, regardless of size, both to fully complete your swings and to stay safe throughout. One of the key factors when eventually going up in weight is the degree to which you can maintain this level of grip strength while performing swings with the mace, and therefore, being mindful of that 80%+ level of grip energy/ability is key to advancing quickly, yet safely.

Learning the 360, Part 4: Shoulder lever, pendulum, and hip pull (Extension) After learning about compression in the last clip, we now flip to *extension* via the shoulder lever, pendulum, and hip pull. The apex of the 360 behind the back naturally pulls the wrists down towards the neck while the elbows go straight up. This is truly the beautiful part of the 360 swing because gravity, combined with tall posture, and the momentum of the swing create a satisfying extension in the spine and hips that is both gentle and challenging for the human frame. We are also the only creature on Earth that can make this movement. It is incredibly special :)

Learning the 360, Part 5: The Kinetic 360 Before committing to the drop which creates the momentum required to *swing* the mace from one hemisphere of the body to the next, we can simulate the full circle movement beforehand via the Kinetic 360. The Kinetic 360 is essentially performing the full 360 pattern, however, the mace will virtually remain in constant contact with the body throughout. It is the last step we can practice before fully disconnecting contact to the mace (outside of the hands) to perform the full 360

Learning the 360, Part 6: The Drop The most critical part of the 360: The Drop. The drop is where we ultimately commit to releasing the pressure we're applying to the mace, keeping it held up and static before letting gravity pull the globe down while our hands elevate and go over the head to our backside to help guide the mace through the momentum generated from the release. If you remember our chapter on the metronome, consider that the drop begins at the edge of our safely executed and examined metronome. For most people, this tends to be somewhere around the 30*-45* angle mark. At that point, the pressure of the globe being pulled away from our center of gravity along with its insistence to begin falling, requires us to surrender to the build up of torque and pressure, ultimately allowing the swing to go full speed. There is much about the 360 that is metaphorical to life. The drop, and our need to surrender to its pressure, is arguably the most important part.

Learning the 360, Part 7: The Negative 360 One more final component to the 360 has us examine the effects of what happens if we allow the mace to swing twice behind our back, i.e. - when the mace hits the peak of its swing from one side of our body to the next, but instead of pulling our elbows down to our hips to complete the 360, we let the weight of the globe swing back which allows you to pull the mace right back to where it came from. Essentially, the negative 360 is just a combination of the drop, the pendulum, and the hip/elbow pull which brings the mace back to its original starting order position, traveling the same way that it came from. You can do several pendulum swings here, or you can do just one that allows the mace to swing back where it came from. Ultimately the choice is yours, while I recommend that you play with it and discover all the nuances in-between. NOTE: The negative is *CLOSE* but not the same as the 10-2 (the move we will learn in the next chapter). Simply put - For the negative, your elbows and wrists will remain behind your head/neck for the initial swing and won't come back down to your hips until the return swing pulls them back to the starting position. Conversely, the 10-2 requires your elbows to pull down to your hips for each side and rep.

Learning the 10-2, Part 1: The Drop-In Swing & Catch Starting with a drop-in swing and catch is a great way to get a feel for the motion of the 10-2. Traditionally, both the drop-in swing and the 10-2 generally speaking, are the primary ways of swinging mace/gada, particularly as they go up in weight. Many of you will find that this is VERY easy with a 10lb mace, but as you challenge yourself with heavier maces, this pattern will be invaluable to helping you get used to the increase in torque and pressure on the shoulders and spine. NOTE: Using this pattern, you WILL switch hands on each rep as your bottom hand will catch once the swing is complete. The regular 10-2, however, does not implement hand switches unless one is doing a long, marathon level set.

Learning the 10-2, Part 2: The Standard 10-2 (Including the "bounce") The 10-2 is one of the best ways to develop strength, increase range of motion, and build muscle with the mace. It is also incredibly satisfying. As you'll note in the lesson title, I employ a "bounce" at the end of each rep. This bounce is a combination of your hands and elbows coming down to meet your hips while also meeting the force of the globe pressing downward and into you from the outside where the swing is coming from. As you begin practicing reps with the 10-2, I would encourage you to search for this bounce as you begin diving into the reps. It is both a great way to know you have completed a rep as well as a notable level of satisfaction you will achieve once you get good with the 10-2, especially when you get to high volumes of reps. NOTE: The "bounce" of the 10-2 can also be felt with the 360 to some degree, however, it is not quite as satisfying because the momentum of the mace helps you make 360s, while you will fight the momentum of the 10-2 on each swing (as you reverse direction)

Learning the Full-Contact Traditional Mace Swing By "Full-Contact", we mean that the mace tail will stay in constant contact with not only your hands at the bottom, but also your shoulder and back as you cast the globe through the nape of the neck. Now, here in the Lesson 1 video, you will hear me (speaking) refer to these swings as "Traditional" swings, while in the Lesson 2 video, I call them "Choke" swings. Truth be told, you could argue that both of these lessons encompass a style of both "choke" and "non-choke traditional" swings, however they are *primarily different* on the basis that this Lesson 1 video is about full contact swings, while the 2nd lesson video is about non-contact, simply put. The full contact swings are VERY useful for heavier maces, both to protect from an overload of torque on both the shoulders and spine, so as you practice this swing, just note that it should be very light with the 10lb mace, even if you're just starting to use a mace for the first time. As you go up in weight, however, you will find this pattern to become more and more valuable.

Learning the Non-Contact Traditional Mace Swing (includes the choke swing) In this lesson, we will learn the non-contact swing with the mace, and to the degree that we can call either of the two traditional swings a "Choke" swing, you will see it employed here. The choke swing gets its name because it does precisely that - it chokes! You will notice that the *near side* of this swing has a significantly different effect than the *far side*, such that the near side is just a tighter swing & pull, while the far side is the one that really chokes you based on how your arm will reach across your neck. Since the mace drops faster here due to the non-contact cast over the shoulder, it will really perform a near choking motion because your arm will really reach over to help offer enough slack for the mace to swing through. These, "nape of the neck, non-contact" style traditional swings are very powerful, very smooth, and often transition more seamlessly to other swings and moves simply because it favors one side of the body over another. It is in this non-contact style that the 10lb mace should remain a quality, enjoyable challenge, even long after you have advanced in weight during the other swings. I very much enjoy these traditional style non-contact swings and use them regularly. I hope you will find pleasure and satisfaction in utilizing them as well.

Learning the Basic Low Front Swing (Golf Swing) The low front swing is simply where you will swing the mace from side-to-side in front of you, beginning and ending in order position, oriented to the left or right. Up to now, the orientation of our order position has been right square in front of us with our hands at our hips looking straight forward. With the low front swing, you will keep your legs/feet looking straight ahead while rotating your torso/upper body close to 90* to either the left or right. From there you will cast the mace straight out in front of you, letting gravity naturally pull the globe down and while doing so, you will trackit with your torso and your hips as it moves in front of you to the opposite side, letting the momentum of the swing pull the mace back up to order position, before doing the same thing to go back again. During this swing, we will NOT switch the orientation of our hands, meaning that in order position our thumbs will be pointing up whereas when the globe is cresting past the front of our body at the apex of the swing, our thumbs will be pointed down (briefly) until the mace lands upright in order position again. This is also why I call this a "Golf" swing. Note that as the swing hits the center line of your body, you should remain cognizant to keep your hands and the mace tail pulled up towards your chest and upper body. For most full grown adults this should not be a problem, however, if you are short, or if the 10lb mace is too heavy to remain tall and upright, I would recommend you perform this same movement with a club (steel or indian) instead, thereby eliminating any potential concerns of hitting your feet/knees/legs As I also demonstrate in the video, you can go back and forth without having to rack the mace in order position, but as I mention, just be aware of your posture the entire time. If at any point (regardless of the swing you're doing but *especially* with these low swings) you notice that you're getting tired and your posture is breaking down, you should stop and either rest, or go down in weight. Strong, tall posture is the only thing that will keep you safe as well as the only way to perform ANY of these swings safely

Learning the Low Front Swing while utilizing the momentum of the 360 (first combo pattern) Towards the end of this course, we will get into combination patterns in both our chapters on Single Arm Swings and Combo Swings, however, I felt that this simple combo was appropriate here because the low front swing is generally utilized as a breaking pattern to mix up both flow and standard swing sets. In other words, while you can work low front swings from side-to-side over and over again (and I certainly recommend you do that when first learning them) as you progress, it will *likely* become less common that you practice this swing all on its own and instead begin mixing it in with other swings, such as the 360. Additionally, I believe that the momentum generated by the 360 swing is both a common way to move into the low front swing as well as a good way to adjust your posture to the dynamic nature of the mace moving around your body, pulling on your posture from different positions/angles. For example, during the 360, the mace will be *pulling* against you when it is behind your back, extending your spine with your wrists low and elbows high. This is significantly different than the low front swing whereby the mace will pull your arms straight down in front, with your posture wanting to pull you to the ground. When combined together, these elements will gradually help develop your fascia and overall connective structural integrity such that your body will be better prepared to handle more weight in a variety of ways over time. I highly recommend you make use of this pattern to build your strength and overall mace practice.

Learning the Standard Hangman Swing The standard hangman swing is one singular movement pattern, however, it has roughly (3) levels to its use: 1. low shallow swing 2. high elevated swing 3. push-pull swing whereby you will pull the globe upright towards the armpit while your upper body will bend over and push down We learn all (3) levels in this video lesson and even discuss how the hangman swing can be used to practice and hone martial arts applications such as the head & arm throw as one does in folk style wrestling. NOTE: It is discussed in this video, but it is worth reiterating that when performing the push-pull swing style of the hangman, the globe will rise up quickly to the armpit, which while scary at first, is totally safe assuming you are looking at the tool and making sure that it comes up behind your arms to the armpit and not in front of you. If you take time practicing versions 1 & 2 mentioned above (and also maintaining tall posture) then the push-pull variation should be easy to execute. Just take your time

Learning the Hangman to Low Front Swing combination pattern The hangman to low front swing combo pattern essentially draws a full circle with the mace on the coronal (frontal) plane in front of the body. The difficulty lies in the manner and variety of ways in which you can switch your hands in performing the combo. I discuss all of this in great detail in what is the longest video in this course.

Learning the Hangman to 360 combination pattern The hangman to 360 combo pattern is an advanced pattern that will take time to learn and understand in order to execute. There are many facets to how you can switch your hand grip and orientation with the mace, why you might switch it in a certain way and why this pattern is important to your holistic development with the steel mace. The nuance and detail of this pattern is as thorough as anything else that you will find in this course. If you get stuck here with either lesson 2 or lesson 3 in this chapter, you may find benefit in moving on and coming back to it once you have learned mills, single arm swings, and other combo patterns that we learn towards the end.

Learning the "Two-Handed" Outside Mill For this first step in learning the outside mill, I want you to focus on breaking the movement down into 2 parts: The overhead swing and then the outside cast swing into order position. In truth, there is no "Two Handed" mill, hence the quotation marks here. The "Two-Handed" component is really just a choked up 360 to help you focus on the initial swing over the head with the elbow landing at the hip on the side of the body in which you are performing the mill. This is the easier of the two parts. Simply perform the choked up, two-handed 360 landing at the hip with the elbow. The 2nd part here is where folks can get tripped up. After the elbow has landed at the hip, the next movement is to then extended your arm out and away from your body to allow the globe to then drop and swing the mace low and in front of you, carrying back across your body and then looping back up to order position to start. ***PLEASE NOTE!*** - The most challenging aspect of the mill here is to keep the tail of the mace behind you as you cast the globe out so it can then drop and swing down and in front of you back to order position. This is the #1 issue that folks have when learning the mill, by far. What will happen if you are either careless or don't pay attention is that after casting the globe out, the tail can easily rotate in front of the arm creating this awkward position that not only prevents you from completing the mill, but also can hit you in the face or head if you're not careful. I demonstrate this potential pitfall in this video. In order to avoid this problem, you must rotate your thumb out, forward (toward the front of your body) and down to guide the globe such that the mace essentially moves like a comet making a circle out, then down and in front of you before looping up to order position. Another way to help with this is simply to choke up on the mace and put your hand closer to the globe. It won't quite have the same momentum as it loops down and in front of you, but it will prevent the tail from coming in front and causing problems. In full transparency, it is actually more difficult to learn the mill with the mace because of this. If you have a steel or indian club, for example, either will help you to make this movement more easily simply because there is no "tail" to deal with. That said, the mill is still an EXCELLENT move to perform and once learned, you will find all kinds of satisfaction in adding it to your mace practice. Just be sure to take your time here learning the nuance of the outward cast.

Learning the "Two-Handed" Inside Mill The Inside mill is actually quite a bit different than the outside mill, especially in the beginning when first learning the movement. For the outside mill, the overhead/behind the head portion is much like a 360 as we discussed above, however with the inside mill, it is much more about drawing sharp lines and using our torso to rotate 180 to perform the backside "swing" that will have the mace move from one hemisphere of our body to the next. To begin, you will find your order position just as you did before, however now with the inside mill, we will want to select a preference for either your left or right hip and position our elbow (at the 90* angle) right in line with the mace looking straight ahead. So one arm will make a wide box out and around while the arm that is principally holding the mace, will be packed in tight to the body looking ahead in front of you. In this position, we will practice pulling the globe straight up and over the shoulder, with elbow high to the sky, before practicing the pull down back to the hip. Once you have your posture tall and understand how to pull the mace back down to the hip (and have done this back and forth several times) you will then rotate your torso only (keeping your legs and hips straight ahead) 90* towards the side of the body/arm that are holding the mace in order position. From there, you will raise the mace & globe up and over the shoulder just as you did before, rotate 180* to the opposite side of the body (still keeping hips and legs looking straight ahead), and then perform your pull down back to the hip again. The last part is to simply remove your top hand, cast the mace slightly outward, allowing the mace to swing back to the side of your body where you started (same side as the arm/hand holding the mace) which will pull your torso with it, following the momentum which will easily help you pull the mace back up to that 90* rotated order position to go again. Its entirely possible that you may find the two-handed inside mill to be easier than its outside counterpart, but that will be for you to decide. So long as you get your lines straight and take this one step-by-step, it shouldn't be too hard to learn, especially if you have already successfully completed the two-handed outside mill to begin with.

Learning the One Handed Outside Mill The one handed outside mill is our first single arm swing in this course. This video lesson is long because there is much to consider in approaching the single arm outside mill. Let's break down a few key elements briefly here: -Because we are removing the 2nd hand to perform this movement, it is crucial that we do (2) things: *Get lots of rotation from the shoulder and make sure we draw our lines well. To help with the shoulder, I have included a warm up specific to the mill that should open up the rotation needed to make sure we both get clearance for the globe around the head as well as remove pressure from the elbow. *Draw quality lines along both the frontal and transverse planes to help guide both the mace and arm to their respective correct positions As you start this, its totally fine to use one hand as a "guide" to help ease your transition to the single hand. Follow my cues in working the low part of the swing on the frontal plane into the outward circle opening rotation on the transverse plane so that both your arm and the mace go where they need to. Once you have landed your elbow back to the hip corresponding to the arm holding the mace, you will cast the globe out just as you did in Lesson 1 on the two-handed outside mill to swing the mace back up to order position on the frontal plane. One extra piece of assistance I give (after applying all of the above) is to pull your shoulder (the one holding the mace) forward ever so slightly so that the drop of the globe over the shoulder in concert with the outside circle is a tad easier and make a more clear delineation of drawing lines similar to the inside circle. Once you have taken this one step-by-step it will get easier to complete the outside circle and rotation with just one hand without any assistance and you will also utilize the resulting momentum of the low swing which brings the globe/mace back up to order position after you cast it out and away from the body. All of these elements will comprise a circular pattern of perpetuating momentum that will both supply low-impact, time under tension for the arm and shoulder and help create a channel of rotational movement that will help you in many facets of life, especially as we work to fight against the postural pitfalls of modern living.

Learning the One Handed Inside Mill Having already completed the one handed outside mill as well as the two-handed inside mill, this small advancement should not be very difficult. There is truly very little that changes from the two handed inside mill to the one handed inside mill. You can essentially start with the two handed version and just progressively apply lighter pressure/connection with the 2nd/supporting hand such that you will let it go altogether. Going through the mill step-by-step with one hand will be simple and virtually the same as the two handed version. Where the single hand inside mill will begin to add complexity/nuance is in the momentum and "beat" of the movement. As you make your way through this lesson's video tutorial, you will see that the momentum of the mace swinging low and past the body up to order position, then carrying on over the shoulder before rotating 180* is where the magic will be found. The single arm inside mill is a THROWING MOTION that our human physiology is *designed* to perform. Unlike any other creature, humans have near Universal, 360* angle rotation in the shoulder and working tools like maces and clubs through this circular range of motion naturally massages our fascia and connective tissue all around the shoulder girdle making it stronger, more injury resistant, and immensely more dexterous. No matter your age, you should be able to utilize this rotational movement to improve your posture, functional range of motion, and your overall quality of life as it just simply becomes easier to do so many other things that require use of the arms and upper body.

Learning Alternating One Handed Switch Outside Mills While there are many additional combos and moves we can add-on to the single arm mill (some of which I have included in the last chapter all about combo patterns), I believe that working through switch mills is the first and perhaps most important. The reason for this is not only to strengthen and develop both sides/hemispheres of the body, but also to alleviate potential pain/injury that can result from overuse. I work through some form of switch mills almost every day and I have never had problems related to tennis elbow, shoulder impingement or other rotational injury. NOW, all said - everyone has unique past experiences and other sports/life related issues that I cannot know or fully account for as I make suggestions to incorporate movements. You should always consult your own doctor for medical advice above all else. That said, I would argue that you stand a good chance to stave off issues related specifically to overuse by simply paying attention to how your wrist/elbow/shoulder feel, and STOP if you feel any pain at all. There should be NO PAIN in performing these movements, mills specifically, so if you DO feel pain you should 1. Go down in weight (if at all possible) and 2. Stop altogether until the pain/inflammation has been reduced to zero. With all the above considered, I would recommend incorporating *more* switch mills vs non-switch mills to avoid overuse/injury issues to a specific elbow/shoulder/arm. If you do mills with one arm over and over again (talking like 50-100+ reps) that is when the greatest chance for injury will occur. If you instead switch arms often (or at least with some consistency to break up high volume with one arm) you will put yourself in a better position to reduce the chance of injury. Now, as far as the movement is concerned, there is really just one major point to consider here and that is the moment at which you will actually switch the mace from one hand to the other. As I cue in this lesson's video, you will need to draw your attention to the low swing from the outside cast to the middle/inside as the globe begins lifting up the mace into the air. The momentum of the mace will begin elevating upward at which point it hits suspension (the point where it will almost "float" for a brief second) where you will let go of the mace with the hand holding it and immediately replace it with your opposite hand which should be following it underneath. The point at which the bottom hand catches the mace should (eventually) simulate that of an uppercut, as if you were boxing. Not only does the uppercut motion help make solid contact with the mace, the upward momentum will help the tail to continue to rise while the globe begins to drop, making the resulting outside circle that much more natural and easy to perform. PLEASE NOTE: Be careful to not get too aggressive with the "uppercut" as you make the switch. Yes, an uppercut is a good way to describe it, but it is possible that if by some manner you miss grabbing the mace but still punch it upward it could hit you in the head or face and we don't want that, so take it slow and easy as you get the timing/movement down. You shouldn't have a problem going relatively slow to start with anyhow. Extra note: As you improve on the switch (and with your knowledge of the offset nature of the mace in general) you will eventually be able to modify the exact spot on the mace where your free hand catches the tail. This means that you can catch it closer to the globe or further down the tail. I discuss this and talk about it toward the end of this lesson's clip, but it is worth mentioning all the same. Eventually, you can perform the mill with essentially the entire length of the mace switching your hand at the very bottom of the tail (so long as you are tall enough and have the distance to clear the resulting outside circle). Something to play with down the road as you become more skilled in general.

Learning Alternating One Handed Switch Inside Mills The alternating one handed switch inside mill is essentially the flip opposite from its outside counterpart. To perform the switch, you will do your regular single arm inside mill and just as your elbow pulls down (right as you are about to hit the apex of the throwing/casting motion) your opposite hand will follow behind from above and it will replace the holding hand as soon as you let it go. If the alternating outside switch is done by a chasing uppercut, the alternating inside switch is performed by a chasing slap down. In truth, I believe this version of alternating switch inside mill is more difficult than the outside counterpart because gravity is ALREADY pulling the mace down to the ground and your top hand must move a little faster to chase it and make the catch. There is simply less time for error as you will just need to get out of the way if in case you do not manage to catch it as you switch hands with the mace falling in space. Fortunately, you should not have any fear of potentially hitting your head/face in order to perform this switch, however, getting hit anywhere is not fun, even if its just the legs and feet, so please use caution as you begin this pattern. My biggest suggestion here is to take it step by step and wait to perform the switch only after your elbow is secured at the hip/your center of gravity. Even with the globe and upper portion of the mace adding *some* pressure on the wrist as you attempt to slow things down with the elbow near the hip, you should still have enough time to safely perform the switch with the bottom hand letting go and the top hand collapsing on top securing the grab and resulting inside to outside swing across the body.

Learning the (Single Arm) Shield Cast The single arm shield cast (also called "Bullwhip") is a kind of combination swing in its own right. It is kind of like a low front swing (golf swing) combined with an inside mill. As you see in this lesson's video, you will begin with the low front swing going back and forth until you are comfortable enough to pull the globe up to your shoulder height level, being caught by your free hand (holding the globe/mace with full control). This is the moment whereby the term "Shield" makes the most sense because you can actually shield your body from a strike while holding in this position. Once you have secured the globe high at the shoulder, you can then initiate the 2nd part of the movement which is the "cast" or "whip" component that in truth, is extremely if not exactly similar to the inside mill. If you think about it like initiating a single arm inside mill from the shield position, you should have no problem completing the movement as a whole. After you cast the globe across the body it will swing back and forth across the body once each to generate new momentum to elevate up to the shield position again. Once comfortable with the movement as a whole (after you have developed the strength and confidence in your shoulder's ability to rotate and cast) you will perform the entire movement without resting the globe and instead letting the globe move over the head before it falls behind you into the cast/throwing motion. Now, because I honestly just get bored with the return swing, I have included the *ONLY* footwork transition that you will find in this course here in this video. After performing your cast/throw, you will follow the globe of the mace with your back leg performing a 180* step-step pivot turn, switching hands at the same time, which will give you the fresh runway to swing again with the new arm, allowing you to perpetuate the momentum of the movement over and over again without stopping. Considering that I just feel the back and forth return swing is just a little redundant, I wanted to make sure you had a better option to improve your work with the shield cast.

Learning the Single Arm 360 Now that we've done single arm mills and the (single arm) shield cast, most everything else should be easier to add to your collection, and this wouldn't be a course on steel mace swings if we didn't master your 360, thus now we learn and review the single arm 360. The shield cast alone should make the single arm 360 much easier to complete, because it is almost the same except a single arm 360 begins from low at your hips (center of gravity) and simply follows the globe as it falls beyond its "point of no return" angle at that 10:00/2:00 position. At that point you will push your hand up and over your head, letting your shoulder and overall posture support the weight of the swing behind you until the momentum delivers your elbow to the moment where it can take the weight and securely pull the mace back down to order position. As I mention at the top of the video, it will help if you allow the globe to gently move from one side of your body towards the other before it casts over the shoulder. When you get into marathon reps with the mace, this singular detail will help significantly increase your mileage as it make high volume reps so much more efficient and easy to perform. Before long you can also begin to pump your feet to help with the swing and momentum as well.

Learning the Single Arm 10-2 For the single arm 10-2, the "Bounce" is the most important part. As it is for many of these single arm/more advanced movements, there are greater details in the nuances of efficiency and strength that allow you to find more satisfaction and higher levels of performance at the same time. The bounce occurs at the point when the mace tail lands at the bottom of the pull with the elbow and helps deliver more efficiency and enjoyment with the hand switch. The apex of the pull and lengthening of the arm will create a bounce effect which will transition perfectly into the hand switch that will occur even as the mace is already in transit back into the air going back over the shoulder where it came from.

Learning (Single Arm) Samurai Swings As I mention in this lesson's video, the samurai swing is really a kind of combination swing, mixing the 10-2, with the low golf swing, and even a bit of a 360 as well. Having just completed single arm 10-2s, this one should be fairly easy to perform. It is a launch from order position into a 10-2 swing with the same hand switch point as the 10-2, except after switching hands you will allow the globe to drop where it is, moving into the low front (golf) swing across the body and up into order position and then into a 360 style cast across mid line before switching at the 10-2 hand switch point on the opposite side again. Samurai swings are very fun and really begin to engage the mind. This is (in my opinion) where your swing skills will meet mental satisfaction. And the good news is that it only gets better from here as you add more nuance and transitions with moves over time :)

Learning the Single Arm Full Contact Traditional Swing An easy one here at this point. Simply rest the mace on the same side shoulder corresponding to the arm holding it. You can rotate the mace tail inward across your body resulting in a cast that will have you swing the tail outward as you pull down with your elbow, or, you can start with the tail outward then cast and swing the tail inward as you perform the pull. Either way works great and will apply even with other tools such as jori and meels.

Learning the Single Arm Non-Contact Traditional Swing (& Single Arm Choke Swing) There are (2) parts to the single arm non-contact traditional swing. The first is fairly simple. The second is much more difficult (choke). The first and primary way to perform the non-contact traditional swing is nearly identical to performing a single arm 360 however, instead of swinging the mace square over your head, you will aim the tail for the *NAPE* of your neck corresponding to the hand holding the mace. So when you're holding the mace with your right hand you will cast the mace globe and tail low over your shoulder by your neck (nape) making a much tighter, more succinct swing. If you go back to the full contact traditional swing above, its also just like the full contact swing that starts with the tail on the outside swinging to the inside, except in this one, you will only have contact with the mace at your hand which is holding it. That's it. NOW, for the 2nd part, the far side non-contact swing is essentially a single arm choke swing and it is a doozy. I almost included this one with our other (2) bonus videos at the end of chapter 9, but I just thought it made more sense to put here. The single arm choke swing is a challenge because it not only reaches across the body and behind the opposite shoulder to perform the swing, but because it doesn't get any help from the other hand (as we reviewed in chapter 4 about traditional swings) it means your posture, including your neck, will need to do the work to hold up your body as the mace swings against it. This ALSO means that your shoulder will need to demonstrate an advance range of motion and dexterity as it reaches across and down to give the mace the opening to swing through. Oh, and your grip strength will be challenged too. This single arm choke swing is not for the faint of heart, but at least you will know it exists. Try it at your own risk. If you hit this lesson and decide to just work on the single arm non-contact traditional swing (part one of this lesson) that is fine too.

Learning the Single Arm Low Front Swing (Golf Swing) Likely the easiest movement (at least academically/in theory) in this chapter. There is not much to say other than this is simply performing the low front swing/golf swing with just one hand instead of two. You must still be strong enough to hold the tail up to your chest and above your navel with just one hand, but after performing everything else up to now, this you should be able to complete with a few reps at a minimum. I also show how to switch hands from one to another.

Combo Pattern - Two Handed 360 to Single Arm Outside Mill

Combo Pattern - (Two-Handed) FIgure 8's

Combo Pattern - Two Handed Near Side Choke Swing to Far Side Choke Swing to Golf Swing to Hand Switch 360

Combo Pattern - Single Arm Near Side Choke Swing to Golf Swing

(Two Handed 360 to start, if desired) Single Arm Outside Mill to Rotating Hangman to Finesse Hand 360

BONUS VIDEO 1: Buzzsaw Hangman to 360 Combo Pattern

BONUS VIDEO 2: Single Arm Hangman to 360 (As well as Single Arm Hangman to Order Position Rotating Front Circle) Combo Pattern